Kumbh Mela 2010

The sound of bells and mantras fill the crisp air of the sacred town of Rishikesh. I gaze out from the balcony at the divine manifestation of the Goddess in the form of Mother Ganga. This holy river that dances through India towards the ocean holds a special magic. In the mornings, dedicated holy men and women brave a bath in the icy waters in order to experience its unique healing benefits. Throughout the day its grace is felt by a plentitude of people. It is used by women stooping on her banks in order to wash their brilliantly colored saris. Prayer filled flowers float in her currents and the dead are burned at her banks. Meditators melt into cosmic bliss with the help of her strong energy field. Families swim and play in her crystal filled white sand beaches. The evenings at her side are filled with sadhu fires and prayers in the river’s divine feminine honor. The river Ganges holds the precious gift of healing and purifying karmas. A dip in her waters promises an expedited movement towards enlightenment and pilgrims from all over the world come to experience this grace.

I have been greatly blessed this year and have the opportunity to spend 4 months alongside the Ganges River. I have come to attend truth gatherings (satsangs) with my Guru and to experience the Kumbh Mela, the largest holy festival on the planet. The Kumbh Mela is an ancient festival that only occurs in this location every 12 years. During the course of 4 months, the nectar of eternal life falls from the heavens and lands in the Ganges near the northern Indian city of Haridwar. There are certain days each month that more of this nectar is available in the river. These are the main bathing days. The festival is traditionally Hindu but it is an opportunity for all to express and love God in their own unique way. Millions of people make a pilgrimage to this sacred city in order to cleanse their karmas and move closer to liberation from the cycle of reincarnation. (Moksha) Amongst these pilgrims are holy men (sadhus) that only leave their hilltop cave homes once every 12 years in order to attend this festival. For most, it is a once in a lifetime experience. It is an amazing opportunity for me to join the millions of holy men and women chanting for God as we move in unison towards the enchanting river.

I recently made the 1 hour journey from Laxmanjula to Haridwar in order to join the full moon January bathing day. Packed snuggly in a Rickshaw, Katelyn and I began to brave the 30 rupee ($. 75), one hour ride to Haridwar. The locals exited the Rickshaw until only we remained. It was at this point that the driver decided to pull over in a little farming village and tell us that if we wanted to go any further, we would now have to pay 300 rupees. We argued the point but the situation resulted in us two American girls walking along a country road in the middle of India, all alone. We decided to take our chances with hitchhiking and stick out our thumbs in hopes of a ride for the remaining 15 km. Grace came in and we were immediately picked up by a mother and son from Delhi. The son swooped in and out of the oncoming traffic as we searched to find the location of the main baths. We drove through an ancient town that was filled with ornate carved buildings and aesthetically crumbling brick walls. The dedicated driver finally came to a stop close to the Ganga and a very old temple. The space was an oasis of tranquility amongst the excited frenzy of Kumbh Mela energy. I would normally drink from this fountain of peace, but at this point I was looking to delve into the craziness of the masses. We parted ways from our Delhi driver and opted for the openness of a pedal rickshaw carriage.

The skinny driver didn’t look strong enough to pedal himself along the hill filled streets, let alone the two of us sitting tall in the tiny rickety structure. It is said that anything is possible in India, and sure enough, away we went. With the willpower of a lion, the small Indian man fiercely raced through the deserted stone streets towards the gathering in Haridwar city. We snapped photos and took in the intensely diverse scenes occurring all around us. We were definitely in India. Motorbikes swerved around the sacred cows and children ran barefoot through the streets. India is a feast of rich contrast. It is sometimes difficult to take it all in.

Our journey landed us in the middle of Haridwar City. The driver asked for 30 rupees for the 30 minute ride, but his sweet sincerity moved us to give him 80 rupees, the equivalent of $1.80. He smiled with gratitude and swayed his head in the Indian version of the western head nod. We placed our hands together in prayer and bowed our heads with a Namaste to show our appreciation for his hard work.

We began to wander on foot without any predetermined destination. We simply wanted to follow our intuitions and enjoy the beautiful experience of the journey. We moved past dreadlocked Babas smiling behind their charras filled chillums. We were met with countless Namastes and chants of Hari Om. The streets were alive with the excitement of God filled pilgrims and eager shop owners waiting for their next sale. Statues of sparkling Hindu Gods and Goddess, intricately manufactured rugs, and clothing made from every color in existence filled the street lined open air shops. I began to breathe it in and was met with the delicious scent of incense as it mingled with a vast array of exotic Indian spices. Samosa shops were neighbored by street chai venders and cases displaying an array of brightly colored Indian sweets. Enchanted by the heart and beauty of this country, we continued to move towards an ideal location to take a dip in the sacred waters of Mother Ganga.

The rows of shops began to open up into the chaos of the Haridwar Ghats (steps leading to the Ganga). We moved through the masses of people dunking in the swiftly moving healing waters. Families grouped together to share their love, devotion and prayers before their 3 dunks for liberation. Despite the intensity, there was a strong spiritual air about the entire scene. People were coming together from all over the world in order to move closer to God. Katelyn and I looked for the ideal location for us to take part in the festivities. Chains and nets were placed along the banks with the intention of preventing the bathers from getting swept away in the currents. We discovered a slightly less dense area amongst a group of Indian women wrapped in saris. One by one we made our prayers and dipped into the rapidly moving waters. In order to make the 3 icy dips for moksha, I had to hold tightly to the chains. The waters covered my head as I made the prayer for the enlightenment of all beings. I prayed for the healing of myself, family and the entire world. I could really feel that the work I am doing on myself is rippling out to the whole of existence.

The Indian woman followed our cue and moved with grace into the waters of the Goddess. I felt a very strong connection to these women as our two very different cultures came together for the unifying purpose of God and liberation from suffering. It was very beautiful to share this experience with the local people of the country. They did not speak English and we did not speak Hindi but words were not needed to understand the splendor of the encounter. We sisters of the world shared love as we smiled and supported each other in the realm beyond words.

The entire experience of my first journey to the Kumbh Mela was filled with much grace, joy and excitement. It was beautiful to move into the experience with the intention of staying centered in meditation amongst so many stimuli. It was a unique opportunity to maintain my presence in the heart and be surrounded by so much of the rich Indian culture. India has an infinite number of faces and it seems that it is possible to discover most of these aspects amongst the celebration of the Kumbh Mela. Cities of tents to explore lay scattered amongst this blessed festival. The energy and momentum of this extended holy-day is underway. With each day that passes, I feel the field of energy growing stronger and stronger. For the next few weeks, I will remain in the tranquility of Rishikesh as I prepare for my next Kumbh Mela pilgrimage on February 12. This day will be the first Royal Bathing day as well as mark one of the biggest Hindu festival days: The Maha Shivaratri….the great Shiva Festival.

Until my next entry, I wish you so much love, blessings and joy in your life. If anyone is curious about this festival, India or anything else pertaining, please feel free to leave any comments or questions. Namaste